Today we have a little chat about the Xbox OG PSU and how to swap it around. Will I get around to actually doing it though? Well, not in this video! I’ve got a rather lovely Kasumi Xbox that I picked up from HEX1GON, but being a Japanese console means dealing with a step-down transformer whenever I want to use it here in Australia.

I don’t particularly like having consoles that need extra transformers. I prefer to pick something up, plug it in and have it work without hunting around for another box and a collection of cables. I’m lazy, what can I say? The Kasumi is worth keeping, so I thought I’d investigate whether one of my other Xbox power supplies might be suitable.

The good news is that I’ve already got a couple of original Xbox consoles lying around. One is a machine I repaired some time ago, complete with a storage upgrade and SATA-to-IDE bridge. I’ve put quite a bit of work into that one, so dismantling it for parts doesn’t sound particularly appealing. The other machine has been giving me trouble, hanging at the Xecuter loading screen even after trying different discs.

Looking inside revealed power supply connectors that appeared very similar to the one in the Kasumi. I also had a look at the motherboard revisions, with the machines appearing to be from the earlier Xbox family. That was encouraging, although I’d still need to check the actual power supply models and connections before attempting a transplant.

There’s also the matter of the original hard drive and clock capacitor arrangements. One machine has clearly had some hardware changes over the years, while another still appears to have its clock capacitor in place. Thankfully I didn’t have to pull apart the Kasumi any further than necessary, because I’d rather not destroy its original labels just to reach a few screws.

So the plan is to take a suitable Australian power supply from a donor Xbox and give the Kasumi a much more convenient life without the step-down transformer. I didn’t actually perform the swap here, but at least I’ve identified some possibilities. The faulty Xbox still needs investigating too, and I’m not entirely convinced I want to sacrifice a machine I’ve already spent so much time repairing!

For the swap, match the PSU to the motherboard revision. Versions 1.0 and 1.1 use a 12-pin connector, while 1.2 to 1.4 use a 20-pin connector. Version 1.6 uses the same connector shape as those later boards but has a different pinout, so a plug that fits is not necessarily electrically compatible. Check the PSU’s mains input rating too, and remember that unplugged power supplies can still retain a dangerous charge.

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